A couple of months back, I FINALLY got to go to the Algerian desert! Travel within the country is difficult because of security concerns, but our security folks determined that one particular area right on the edge of the Sahara (a oasis town called Taghit) was OK, so off we went! That’s right, I have now been to the freakin’ Sahara desert.
But since Taghit is a teeny tiny town with no airport, we had fly into Bechar, where there is an airport (more of a large hall with high ceilings sitting next to a tarmac where airplanes stop by every now and then than an airport, but it served its purpose). We also had to stay the night in Bechar in what is hands down the worst hotel I’ve ever stayed in (and this includes hostels). The photos don’t really do it justice. If you imagine a strong smell of sewage when looking at them, you’ll get a better sense:
Also the sheet wasn’t quite the right size, so sleeping on the gross mattress was an inevitability. Also it was freezing cold. So yeah. Not much sleep that night.
Anyway. We survived the night and loaded into a rickety bus the next morning for our trek to the Sahara, complete with our police escort (as the Algieran government requires of us when traveling outside of the capital). I’m not in the photo because I was taking the picture. Our bus driver took one with me in it, but he decided not to include the bus in his.
After about 90 minutes on the road, we arrived at our hotel in Taghit. There were enough of us from the Embassy to take over the entire place, which was smack on the edge of the desert. Check out the view from the roof of the hotel:
The hotel was a massive improvement from the night before; the rooms were basic but had tons of character and, most importantly, no sewage smell. Also, did I mention the view of the sand dunes???
After a bit of negotiation with the hotel manager (negotiation with him would be a key challenge of the trip, and probably the only negative to the weekend), we rode camels. It was awesome. And when we stopped for a photo op, two of them did some kissing. Kissing camels are really cute.
We then went on a walk through the town of Taghit – walking through the entire place at a leisurely stroll too about 15 minutes. It’s a small place.
During our 2+ days in the desert, we had a dedicated tour guide, Kadr, who told us his family had lived in Taghit for 1000 years. Not totally sure if he was being honest or just telling the westerners what we wanted to hear, but he was a good tour guide. He also shared with us that he loved him some Jack Daniels, which led to the revelation that outside of Algiers people are much, much less uptight about the “no drinking” part of life. In fact, life was noticeably more laid back out in the desert, which I guess makes sense.
Anyway, our second day in Taghit, Kadr took us out into the “brown desert” (as opposed to the “gold desert” which is the fancy sand dune kind). The excursion involved the group cramming into 3 dilapidated four wheel drive vehicles, driven by buddies of the hotel manager, and going off-roading through the desert for about 45 minutes until we reached a rock pile featuring etchings from 6000 B.C. It was more fun to climb the rock pile and check out the awesome view from the top than to look at the etchings, but either way it was a cool outing.
The piece de resistance of the entire weekend was an combo platter of afternoon hiking out into the Sahara, watching the sun set, then sitting around a campfire at a bivouac while listening to local musicians, drinking tea, and then eating succulent chicken that was slowed-cooked beneath the campfire.
Walking up and down sand dunes is as tough as you’d expect, but totally worth it!
Looking back at our bivouac site as we headed out into the desert:
The making of the tea – main ingredient: an insane amount of sugar. It really makes American sweet tea seem bitter! Of course, that didn’t stop us from indulging!
As the sun went down, we huddled by the fire for warmth while being entertained by the group of local musicians, who were basically just having a jam session (they told us the next day that after we left, they stuck around and played together until 4am!)
Finally the food was deemed cooked and one of the cooks dug it out from underneath the campfire. It really was the best chicken ever.
The following morning we went on one last tour of the town – this time to purchase souvenirs, though there was little selection. Turns out even in a tiny town on the edge of the Sahara desert, there’s still a bunch of tourist crap for sale. Then it was back in the rickety bus to get back to the airport in Bechar to catch our plane back to Algiers (but only after a 4 hour wait in a freezing airport since our security people required us to be off the road before dark and our flight wasn’t until later in the evening.) But despite the one or two difficulties of the trip, it was hands down the best trip I’ve taken in Algeria since I have been here. I feel very lucky to have had this opportunity!








































































































